Whether you’re in Berlin for history, nightlife or design, Philip Oltermann picks out his favourite venues beyond the tourist haunts – plus a couple of classicsNungwi Village
If Germany’s relationship with bread elsewhere in the country verges on the theological, Berlin is a den of infidelity. Good bakeries are few and far between, and the standard Berlin bread roll tastes of cardboard. But breakfasts at Cafe Kalwil are a dream: fresh rolls, flaky croissants, well-cured cold cuts and a sea of jams. Located on Motzstrasse, between philosopher-anthropologist Rudolf Steiner’s former home and a row of fetish shops, it’s also a perfect spot for appreciating some of the ultra-specific subcultures Berlin still does so well to protect.