A wine romance: veal and vermouth in a traditional Turin watering hole

July 3, 2017

It may be a simple tavern, but Caffè-Vini Emilio Ranzini has a history of doing the basics well

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In a backstreet behind Turin’s teeming Porta Palatina market, “Vini Ranzini”, as locals call this famous watering hole, was set up more than 50 years ago by Emilio Ranzini. His son Mario now runs the place with his own sons, Alberto and Emiliano. But there has been a bar on the site since around 1850, when Turin was at the centre of the Italian unification movement. It began life as a wine store, where families would fill up demijohns of rough vino from the vineyards of Piedmont, and by 1900 it was, according to Mario, pretty much what it is today, “A piola, a simple tavern, open all day, serving traditional food, local wines and a welcoming glass of vermouth to torinesi on their way to and from work.”

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Vini Ranzini serves a delicious artisan vermouth by local winemaker Giovanni Brignolio

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