Restaurants

Fancy Crab, London: ‘A terrible waste of time’ – restaurant review

September 3, 2017

Red king crabs are seafood royalty. How can this place dedicated to consuming them get it all so horribly wrong? 92 Wigmore Street, London W1U 3RD (020 3096 9484). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £150 Eating crab, like building kitchen extensions and sex, is very messy when done properly. You have to roll […]

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The Garden Café, London: ‘A lovely new space’ – restaurant review

September 3, 2017

Visitors to London’s Garden Museum will be impressed to see how its new café is bedding in Nungwi Village The Garden Café, The Garden Museum, Lambeth Palace Road, London SE1 7LB. (020 7401 8865). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £60-£90 Set into the polished concrete floor of the new café at London’s Garden […]

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The Old House, Hull: ‘It could be great…’ – restaurant review

September 3, 2017

One of Hull’s oldest buildings has been given a new lease of life – and with a few tweaks it could really be top notch Nungwi Village The Old House by Shoot the Bull, 5 Scale Lane, Hull HU1 1LA (01482 210 253). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £40-£100 Chris Harrison knows how […]

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10 of the best restaurants in rural Spain: readers’ travel tips

September 3, 2017

From the mountains of northern Spain to the beaches of Andalucía and across to the Balearics, our readers have discovered fantastic places to eat The picturesque medieval village of Pedraza, in Segovia, is 75 miles north of Madrid and popular at weekends with Madrileños who pack the numerous asados (restaurants specialising in roasts). My favourite […]

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Tenerife’s pop-up restaurants: tradition and taste – without the hype

September 3, 2017

In sheds, gardens and fields in the north of the island, wine growers run makeshift guachinches, selling their own wine and excellent local food In the green, wine-growing areas of northern Tenerife, sharp-eyed visitors might spot makeshift restaurants in garages and courtyards. These unpretentious places are guachinches, originally outlets for small growers to sell their […]

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The Cottage In The Wood, near Keswick, Lake District: hotel review

September 3, 2017

The talented new chef at this restaurant with rooms offers exquisite meals with molecular and new Nordic elements, but the basics are spot on, too Providing butter at a spreadable temperature is a skill all hoteliers should have mastered. The rarity with which this simple task is accomplished, however, means that when you do come […]

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Alabama pit stops: 5 of the best gas station barbecue joints

September 3, 2017

Alabama excels at the gas station barbecue – a sub-genre of one of the few truly American cuisines – which is tailor-made for lovers of the open road• Barbecue is serious stuff: tell us about your favourite place in the comments Gas station barbecue is just what it says it is: homespun food, cooked yards […]

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Spain road trip: Málaga to Jerez

September 3, 2017

This route starts on the Costa del Sol and heads up into Andalucía’s mountains and white villages before hitting the tapas and flamenco bars of Jerez• More Spain road trips: San Sebastián-Valencia and Madrid-Santiago de Compostela In Málaga enjoy arty sophistication before heading into the wilds. Of the city’s many museums and galleries, the Carmen […]

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Picture Fitzrovia, London: ‘Exceptionally good’ – restaurant review

September 3, 2017

Abandoning his usual well-planned ways, Jay takes a last-minute chance on dinner – and to his surprise hits the jackpot Picture Fitzrovia, 110 Great Portland Street, London W1W 6PQ (020 7637 7892). Meal for two including drinks and service: £120 As a restaurant critic, my body is not entirely my own; I sacrifice it weekly […]

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Plaquemine Lock, London: ‘celebration of Louisiana’ restaurant review

September 3, 2017

Jacob Kenedy has written a love letter to Cajun and Creole cookery from a pub in Islington Plaquemine Lock, 139 Graham Street, London N1 8LB (020 7688 1488). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £40 to £90 Plaquemine Lock is that dangerous love affair you warn your best friend to avoid. Leave it, mate. […]

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