Flank at the Cow, Brighton: restaurant review

July 3, 2016

A lustily written menu can’t deliver on all its promises – but enough well-executed dishes signal good things to come…

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Flank at the Cow, 97 Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 3JE (01273 772370). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £50-£70

A TV executive told me recently that the competition for new commissions has become so fierce that the people charged with developing ideas are, out of desperation, writing proposals for factual shows which are un-makeable. Oh sure, they look plausible. They even make sense when read out loud. But they are full of unrealisable promises of jeopardy, of emotional storylines that could not be guaranteed. What’s on the piece of paper could never appear on screen.

This is boisterous, masculine cooking, which isn’t afraid of the salt cellar but stays the right side of hypertension

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