Hell and high water: fishing in Iceland

April 3, 2017

The midge-infested wastes of Iceland are not for everyone. But if you love trout fishing, it’s paradise

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It’s a long way to Akureyri, but even further to Lake Myvatn. To get there, you have to drive from Iceland’s bleak northern capital through what feels like an ancient landscape – volcanic and steaming – but is in fact only a little older than Jesus. I doubt you’ll want to go. If you’re like my colleagues, you find the idea of standing in water for hours trying, as one put it, “To pull a disgusting fish from its peace below the surface just to look at it”, inexplicable.

Add that Myvatn means “midge lake”; that the accommodation is reminiscent of the prefabricated blocks I lived in while working for a mining company, and that this all-inclusive holiday cost me a life-scouring £600 a day, and my guess is you’ll be going to the Blue Lagoon instead. I’m glad, lovely though I’m sure you are.

I find myself locked in an epic battle. I can tell from the way the fish fights that it is big

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