Oklava: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

January 3, 2016

It ticks all the boxes, and the young chef is a star in the making, but this new restaurant isn’t quite the finished article

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Oklava, 74 Luke Street, London EC2 (020 7729 3032). Meal for two, with drinks and service: £80

Compare hotel prices and find the best deal - HotelsCombined.com Nungwi Village

If you happened to be terribly smug and decided to prove the irritating depths of your London restaurant knowledge by coming up with a place that ticked every box marked cliché, it would look like Oklava. You would start with a young cook, fêted in various head-chef roles, who has since spent a period out of captivity, cooking at pop-ups and supper clubs and building a devoted fanbase along the way. You would give her a style of food that draws on a distinct cultural heritage, ideally one that’s a bit peasanty and involves ingredients so esoteric you have to Google their names. Oh, and it would have to be a style of food which hasn’t been completely done to death by everyone else.

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