Palatino: ‘Better than in Rome’ – restaurant review

January 3, 2018

You don’t have to fly to Italy to sample Roman cooking at its simple best – just catch a cab to Palatino in Old Street

Compare hotel prices and find the best deal - Nungwi Village

Palatino, 71 Central Street, London EC1V 8AB (020 3481 5300). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £60 to £90

Compare hotel prices and find the best deal - Nungwi Village

The late AA Gill was once so infuriated by the quality of the food he was served at a London Italian that he left the restaurant, hailed a cab to Heathrow, jumped on a plane and a few hours later was eating the real thing in Rome. It was a beautiful journalistic stunt, and a tribute to many things, including Gill’s shamelessness, but mostly to the financial resources he enjoyed at his newspaper. If I tried something like that at Palatino, chef Stevie Parle’s Roman-themed venture near London’s Old Street, expenses would get me no more than a Boris bike to an Italian caff in Highbury.

As deep winter daylight falls, the lovely things keep arriving at my table

The dry-looking slice releases its ballast of sweet syrup as you bite in

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