The Cat’s Pyjamas, Leeds: restaurant review

July 3, 2017

Indian street food and craft beer is a great combo, and it could be coming to a high street near you soon

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The Cat’s Pyjamas, 9 Eastgate, Leeds LS2 7LY (0113 234 0454). Also in Headingley. Meal for two, including drinks and service: £60

When it comes to the vital business of dinner, we idealise the bespoke. Give us a seat in a 12-cover restaurant, with a kitchen so small there’s only space for the venerated head chef and someone to do their washing-up, and we’re happy. We want that cook’s hands to touch the ingredients we eat. We do not want to be part of some huge mass that merely needs servicing. In the matter of our appetites we are all of us solipsists.

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Sea bream is slicked with lemongrass and chilli, with ginger and lime bashed into its slashed skin

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