The White Lion Inn, Cray, Yorkshire dales: hotel review

November 3, 2017

This revamped old drovers’ pub above Wharfedale offers a roaring fire, real ales and a menu designed for those who’ve been out walking on the fells

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When Yorkshire hosted the grand départ of the Tour de France in 2014, the first taste of the wild for the peleton was climbing out of Wharfedale past a series of roaring waterfalls on the austere flanks of Buckden Pike. Halfway up that climb they will have scarcely noticed a small cluster of stone barns and farmhouses, one of which was an old drovers’ pub, the White Lion, which closed soon afterwards, apparently forever.

It was the kind of place that had never really been the same since shepherds stopped arriving with their flocks, expecting food and lodging for man and beast, en route to the bright lights of Skipton. Then, in 2015, Dennis Peacock and Amelia Johnson, who also run a restaurant in York, bought the place. They revamped the bar, rebuilt the bedrooms, rescued various antique tools and lit the fire. The White Lion was back in business.

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On a cool October afternoon I am pleased to find that fire roaring in the grate and three real ales on hand pump

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