The White Swan: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

March 3, 2015

You might hesitate on the doorstep of the White Swan, but step inside and you’ll find this is no ugly duckling

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300 Wheatley Lane Road, Fence, Lancashire (01282 611 773). Meal for two, with wine and service: £75

Forgive me if, for the next few sentences, I sound like a man tiptoeing through a field of uncracked raw eggs. I don’t want to offend. Or to be precise, I’m very happy to offend but only with good reason. Right now I don’t have one. So when I say Fence in Lancashire is not the kind of place where I’d expect to find food of the quality currently being served at the White Swan pub, that’s all I mean.

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