Treves and Hyde, London: ‘A fitting end to a year of cheer’ – restaurant review | Jay Rayner

January 3, 2018

It’s the details that count at this City gem, says Jay Rayner, as he looks back on the highs and lows of the past 12 months

Treves and Hyde, 15-17 Leman Street, London E1 8EN (020 3621 8900). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £90

The last dish to land on my table in 2017 is a ray of sunshine as drawn for a children’s book: a triangle of wobbling lemon tart the colour of daffodils or beaches or buttercups. The filling has been infused with basil, and punched up with lime, then sprinkled with sugar and given a glancing burst from a blowtorch. The pastry is crisp top and bottom. Alongside, is a scoop of ricotta and sour cherry ice cream. It is a bunch of simple things done exceedingly well, which describes the whole of my lunch at Treves and Hyde in the City.

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We coo over buttered carrots with goat’s curd, and a Little Gem salad with spirals of fennel

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