Westerns Laundry, London: restaurant review

July 3, 2017

The food is excellent at this new Islington seafood house. But the silly fad for ‘natural’ wines will spoil your dinner

Westerns Laundry, 34 Drayton Park, London N5 1PB (020 7700 3700). Meal for two without wine: £85; with wine £120

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Recently, in support of a new US TV series, Gordon Ramsay gave an interview in which he listed his golden rules for eating in restaurants: avoid the specials, because they probably aren’t, and so on. More interesting was his suggestion that you book for three when there are just two of you, because they’ll give you a bigger table. Then you can turn up without your phantom friend, hungry for elbow room. This sounds like a brilliant way to infuriate grouchy chefs like, say, Gordon Ramsay.

I asked the waiter, ‘How many of these wines are so-called naturals?’ He smiled uneasily. ‘All of them’

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