Wilsons, Bristol: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

April 3, 2017

Good ingredients, cooked well and served in an unshowy room… Wilsons shows the joy of keeping things simple

Wilsons, 24 Chandos Road, Bristol BS6 6PF (0117 973 4157). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £90

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A spare day in Cardiff deserving of lunch, and I know exactly where to go: the Central station. Because from there I can get on a train to Bristol. Where else would I go for lunch when in the Welsh capital? Some might see this as unnecessarily provocative; I see it as necessarily so. When last I reviewed in Cardiff back in August – positively I should add – I bemoaned the lack of great eating opportunities in the city. I wasn’t just referring to la-di-da faine dining, with its silver-leaf gilded lark’s tongues and waiter frottage. I meant all of it, from high to low, from earthy to delicate, from exotic to native. For a major city with a sizeable population, the pickings are meagre.

Perfect tagliatelle, all bite and silk, is served in a rich parmesan cream under fistfuls of shaved truffle

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